G1's blog

16th July - Final Summit Push Begins

The team departed Basecamp at dawn for Camp 1. A clear morning provided firm conditions which allowed the team to move quickly through the icefall and lower glacier an experience we hope to only endure one more time on our return from a successful summit. The team met up with Mick Parker and the High Altitude Porter (HAP) Pawanna at Camp 1. Mick P was unable to progress through to Camp 2 due to an illness suffered by Pawanna. The entire team rested at Camp 1 that afternoon.

15 July - Mick P and Pawanna leave for C3

Another overnight 15 cm dump of snow saw Basecamp covered in a light carpet. Mick Parker along with our only working HAP Pawanna plugged steps in the deep snow to Camp 1. Their aim is to do a carry of tents and gas to camp 3 in preparation for a summit bid around the 19th -20th July. James our doctor left Basecamp for Skardu as a result of not being able to shake of bronchitis. He will be sorely missed. The plan is for the team to depart on the 16th of July for a summit push although continuing bad weather is making the departure uncertain.

14 July - Rest Day

A welcome rest day with the climbers washing their clothes and bodies. It continued to be a fickle day fluctuating between snow and sunshine. We heard the news that three Czech’s had summitted on G1 on the 13th of July. Given the poor weather conditions it was a great feat although it was unlikely they would have seen anything from the top. We have heard that no-one has summitted on G2 at this stage.

13 July - Down to Basecamp

Strong winds, snow and low visibility dawned at Camp 2. The team withdrew back to Basecamp to wait out the bad weather and recondition prior to the final summit push. Despite the snow there had been no freeze overnight on the glacier. The team found the glacier and icefall had continued to deteriorate with the going slower and the track changing considerably.

12 July Japanese Couloir

A cold and windy morning greeted the team at Camp 2 as we commenced the load carry to Camp 3 up the Japanese Couloir. A staggered start to the team due to conditions and exertion of the past two days meant we joined the precession of Czechs and other nationalities up the fixed ropes. The Japanese Couloir was the first true climbing encountered on G1 and proved to be an exhilarating and enjoyable climb and a direct route. Unfortunately, increasing winds and a bottleneck of climbers necessitated the team to abort the climb so close to the top.  read more »

11 July HAP with Altitude Sickness

We awakened at Camp1 to the site of Ahmed our High Altitude Porter (HAP) unable to walk stand or talk. We had no choice but to send him down to Basecamp. Unfortunately our other HAP descended to Basecamp as well leaving the team with a heavy lift to Camp 2. All members except James who is battling bronchitis moved to Camp 2 and established a firm footing at the base of the Japanese Couloir.

10 July Interim Camp Disappears

All members leave from Basecamp to Camp 1. At the top of the icefall we were all shocked to see the activity of the glacier had collapsed a basketball arena sized section of ice and it forced our path through its rubble. We were to move our interim camp tent on the way through but to our absolute shock the tent and its contents had vanished with no trace. We spent a cramped night in Camp 1.

9th July - Clean Up

A clear morning and bright sunshine saw us scorching yet again at Basecamp. We seem to go from one extreme to another. Today was spent washing clothes and bodies in preparation for our next foray up the mountain tomorrow.

The plan is to sleep at Camp 2 and hopefully do a load carry to Camp 3.

8th July - Rest Day

A welcome rest day for all with continuing cool weather and steady snowfall measuring 30cm. Whilst sitting here at Basecamp we have been able to reflect on good progress to Camp 2 so far since arrival.

There are a number of other teams attempting Gasherbrum 1 so we will not be alone on the route.

7th July - Windy Camp 2

James, Zac, Cookie, Henry and the 2 HAP's left Camp 1 at around 5.30am on a cloudy day for a load carry to Camp 2. Damien and Lesley stayed at Camp 1 as they were not feeling well.

As the snow was hard packed the trip was done rapidly in under 3 1/2 hours. The strong winds on the La had James and Zac huddled in thetent to stay warm whilst the stoic duo of Cookie and Henry stood outside lapping up the 25knot winds and pretending they weren't suffering.

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