Zac Zaharias

My love affair with mountains started in 1976 when I completed a basic mountaineering course in the Southern Alps of New Zealand. I enjoyed it so much that I kept coming back every summer for the next five years. They were wonderful, carefree times - climbing with a few mates, hauling huge packs up and down the Tasman Glacier, overindulging at the $5 eat all you can smorgasbords at the Hermitage hotel and occasionally getting up a mountain< when the weather was kind to us. In the summer of 1981 I completed the
Grand Traverse of Mt Cook, an 18 hour epic over the three summits along the
mile high ridge line. It was fantastic day out and still one of my most
memorable climbs. Like all alpine climbers I was drawn to the Himalaya with
my first ever expedition to Ganesh IV (7102 metres) in 1981. Although
unsuccessful, I was hooked and kept returning to the mountains of my dreams
with my first Himalayan summit being the fourth ascent of Nilgiri North, a
7061 metre peak in the Annapurna Range.

I first visited Pakistan in 1985 when I worked for the UN, including living
in Skardu for two months. It was from this first hand experience of this
region that I was inspired to return the next year on an Army Alpine
Association expedition to Broad Peak. It was an expedition packed with
excitement, from porter strikes to near starvation as well as dodging deadly
stone fall on the way to Camp 1. Inspite of these dramas we succeeded in
placing eight on the summit on a brilliant, cloudless day on 16 Aug. We were
rewarded with stunning views of the Gasherbrums, Chogolisa and K2. After
Broad Peak I focussed mainly on the 8000 metre peaks including multiple
expeditions to Everest, Dhaulagiri and Shishapangma. 2005 saw me return to
the Baltoro with Geoff Robb, climbing Gasherbrum II.

It is with great excitement that I look forward to returning on my fourth
visit. Inshallah, this strong and harmonious team will see success and safe

· 1976 - 2004 - 11 seasons alpine climbing in New Zealand, over 40 summits
· 1976 - Now - Rockclimbing in Australia and New Zealand.
· 1981 - Ganesh 4 (7102m), Nepal. Reached 5800m.
· 1982 - Mt Denali (6192m), Alaska.
· 1983 - Nilgiri North (7061m), Nepal.
· 1985 - White Sail (6446m), India. Reached 5800m.
· 1986 - Broad Peak (8047m), Pakistan. 1st Australian Ascent.
· 1988 - Mt Everest via South Col (8850m), Nepal. Reached 8600m.
· 1991 - Kedarnath (6940m), India.
· 1993 - Dhaulagiri I (8167m), Nepal. Reached 7500m.
· 1997 - Dhaulagiri I (8167m), Nepal. 1st Australian ascent.
· 1998 - Shishapngma (8027m), Tibet. Reached 6300m.
· 1999 - Shishapangma (8027m), Tibet.
· 2001 - Everest, via North Col (8850m), Tibet. Reached 8750m.
· 2004 - Cho Oyu (8201m), Tibet.
· 2005 - Gasherbrum II (8035m), Pakistan.
· 2006 - Mt Kilimanjaro (5895m), Tanzania.